A few days ago I was looking through a carton of papers, long overdue for filing, when I came across a bundle of used Air New Zealand tickets. My attention was suddenly grabbed by the name on the top ticket - "GYATSO. T. H.H. DALAI LAMA". Now there's a souvenir if ever there was one!

I was reminded of the memorable journey I took in May 1992, and how I have often thought I should write down some of the experiences of that trip. I'm referring of course to the first visit to New Zealand of His Holiness the Dalai Lama, and my good fortune to have been on the Board of Trustees which organised the visit - and whatsmore, because my "portfolio" was logistics (flights, luggage, cars, accommodation, security, venues, etc), I got to travel with the entourage accompanying His Holiness.

A book could be written about His Holiness' teachings in Wellington, Dunedin, Christchurch and Auckland. What I want to write about though are some of the little anecdotes - moments of humour, surprise and warmth that occurred each day - moments that made the trip even more special than I could possibly have imagined it would be. Even then a short piece like this cannot do justice, and what follows are just a few samples.

The first time we flew (a normal scheduled service from Wellington to Dunedin) the cabin staff announced that "Ladies and Gentlemen, on our flight today we welcome His Holiness the Dalai Lama of Tibet". Spontaneous applause broke out through the aircraft, and one of the passengers made the comment that she had never felt safer on a plane than she did on this trip.

The welcome at the airport from the Dunedin community would have to have been one of the most moving events. Tibetan flags, scarves (khatas), flowers - and the faces - it was just incredible to see the deep respect and devotion on the faces, and to feel the holy, reverent atmosphere that pervaded. An experience I won't forget in a hurry.

On a more mundane level, unfortunately the bags had already gone astray, and my name was looking like mud - so soon. The Tibetan security man, Senge Rabten (one of seven Tibetans travelling with His Holiness) looked at me darkly, demanding an immediate explanation. Then a stroke of good fortune - the Tibetan luggage had after all turned up, but this still left some fifteen or so New Zealanders without toothbrushes and pyjamas for their first night in Dunedin. Somehow though, with Senge off my back, I felt much better, and the story had a happy ending early next morning when Air New Zealand came up trumps with the rest of the luggage.

One of my jobs was to arrive at each of the venues ahead of the entourage, to open the door to His Holiness' car, then having introduced him to the particular dignitary presiding at the venue I would lead the way backstage where the Dalai Lama would rest for a few minutes before giving his talk. This went well until the Aotea Centre when His Holiness arrived a little late. He knew he was late - the car door shot open, practically kneecapping yours truly, and I found myself being taken by the arm and led into the building by the Dalai Lama, and being told - "Come along, we must hurry". Meanwhile, Maggie Barry was left somewhat bemused on the pavement.

His Holiness was not easy to plan for. A minute by minute program had been very carefully rehearsed in the weeks before the visit, but unfortunately he got to hear about interesting local attractions - such as the Dunedin albatross colony - and suddenly we were in a long cavalcade travelling the length of the Dunedin peninsula. Poor Helen Brown, the journalist who eventually wrote an article in "North and South" (which was inspired by the blessing the Dalai Lama gave her unborn child) - yet again, for about the third time, she was re-scheduled to do the interview later (she had already flown to Dunedin specially having failed to interview His Holiness in Wellington). By now it was becoming touch and go which would happen first - the interview or the birth!

I also remember him taking matters into this own hands in Christchurch. We were due to drive through the Botanical Gardens to the tree-planting ceremony - I say drive because the gardens were considered to be a security nightmare, and let's not mince words, there are in the world (incredibly) people who would wish the Dalai Lama harm. Anyway, the car slowed down at the gates to allow for His Holiness to meet the curator, and the next thing he was out of the car and striding through the gardens at what can only be described as "a rate of knots". Once again the dark looks from Senge as if I, Richard Barrett, was personally responsible for what was happening.

The Dalai Lama's motivation was clear enough (apart from his obvious love of nature). He would seize these opportunities to meet people on their own ground - no protocol, no prepared speeches, no freshly decorated rooms, just people going about their lives, walking through the gardens. One woman strode up to His Holiness and took his hand - a man in a wheelchair whose day was made when the Dalai Lama crouched down on the grass to talk with him - and some people who looked on bemused, possibly wondering who this guy in maroon robes was!

The visit to the Buddhist centre at the Dorje Chang Institute in Auckland was another opportunity to see the non-public face of this incredible man. Due to some late readjustments to the Auckland program the precise timing of his arrival at DCI was not known until almost the last moment. Consequently - horror of horrors - things weren't quite ready when His Holiness arrived. Even though this was not openly obvious ("where are the offerings - the rice - the incense" - all quietly whispered) the underlying panic was so palpable that the Dalai Lama immediately picked up on it. His openly displayed amusement was so infectious that the panic dissipated immediately and everyone joined in the laughter. I was left with the overwhelming feeling "well done DCI for making the Dalai Lama's day so happy!"

We travelled further north to Kaukapakapa and to Karma Choeling Buddhist Monastery - here in a typical New Zealand bush setting you stumble across a little bit of Tibet. His Holiness was clearly very moved by this experience as he drove to the temple on the hilltop along a road lined with flag waving people - people who had travelled from all around the country simply to get a glimpse of this remarkable man. As with many of my other experiences during this memorable week, the visit to Karma Choeling left me feeling very priviledged on a personal level, but also very delighted that His Holiness had been able to see for himself the powerful influence of the Dharma, and how it was manifesting in the most remote corners of the globe. Bearing testimony to this at Karma Choeling were some remarkable works - including a larger than lifesize vividly painted Buddha statue - all of which had been quietly initiated years earlier by Venerable Lama Karma Samten Gyatso and Venerable Lama Karma Shedrup Senge. I had a strong feeling that His Holiness must feel a sense of coming home' when he visits such spiritually charged places during his travels.

At some venues the interest was so intense that a separate hall was linked in by live videocast. In Auckland the talk was given in the Aotea Centre's main auditorium and about another thousand or so people watched the big screen in the ASB Theatre down the stairs. After the talk His Holiness made a brief appearance in the ASB, and I, like most others, expected him to perhaps say a few more words along the lines of his main talk. But no, he simply said, laughing, "Tomorrow I fly home to India. There is a storm over the Bay of Bengal. Pray for me!"

I think the word is "disarming". The Dalai Lama is disarming. You think he is this way, or that way, and that he will talk about compassion and love for fellow beings - and he does. But, then he disarms you by being a living example of these teachings, not in a global, powerful, macho world leader sort of way - that wouldn't be disarming - but in a truly human way, with laughter never far away.

Certainly an incredible journey. I will treasure that air ticket.

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